Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
